When I first arrived in the Czech Republic, I had traveled a bit, not extensively by any means, but a bit in Central and Eastern Europe. I knew some of tricks and had learned a few lessons about what to do and what not to do. Still, looking back just six months, I can see how I first saw this my small town from the bus window the morning I pulled into Boleslav. My thoughts were a mixture of gratefulness for a different facade and pure charm and intoxication with uncomplicated smells of dirt and stone which signified to me a more uncomplicated way of life. 'The people of this town will teach me.' I thought and imagined a strangers welcome, where many questions would be asked and I would be immersed in Czech society. Czech society is many things but not at all more uncomplicated than American society.
After working for one month, the reality hit me with great force. I was being paid less than minimum wage in America, as a post-graduate with an additional post-grad certification. Initially, I chose to overlooked this wage because I had yet to see the standard of living that most 'middle-class' Czech's enjoy. In my eyes, the poverty of my situation was normal and quaint. I was by no means uncomfortable and it was, after all, Central Europe. I didn't expect any more and I didn't get any more.
As the fifth month approached and my working hours shortened, after I recieved no holiday pay and met more Czechs who seemed to enjoy amenities that I couldn't afford, I realized that I was being taken for a ride. Granted, it was the ride that I had signed up for, but it was by no means, the reality of life in the Czech Republic. My employers were not paying me according to Czech law or treating me in a way that most Czechs would tolerate. I had tasted what some Americans living in Romania described to me as the post-communist residue that really 'fucks with your head after a while'. For the most part, my head still felt fine, although I saw 3 of my colleagues leave our job simply boiling. I learned that there is a long tradition of taking what you can from those who come from societies 'had' when Czech society didn't have. For example, giving different menus to foreigners in restaurants and vastly overcharging for services. I experienced underestimating my hosts and as I underestimated them, they used this to their financial advantage.
Yesterday, I confronted my boss. After losing 60 percent of her staff, she was easy to speak with. Why do I remain? Perhaps because of my lingering naievity. Perhaps there is nothing more for me to learn. Perhaps because I see leaving as an admission of defeat. I think there is another reason. Money is one thing, but I am fascinated and want to learn more about how Czech's think, live and work. I'm still seduced by the search for a disappearing vein of authenticity wherever it lies, beneath the surface, which is easily explained in so many words. When does the transition from foreigner to friend begin? Must I marry a Czech? Did my employers expect all of the native workers to desert them? And they were proven right and justified for treating them poorly, or just as happy to see them go? Are foreigners replaceable and that's why they are treated with less respect and rights than Czech citizens?
My employer is one of the sweetest women that I have met. She's unusually perky and optimistic and we have a genuine connection. Or so I think. This morning, as rubber met the road and I expressed I can no longer subsist happily on my pay. We negotiated a new contract, while driving which is not something I would suggest. As soon as we reached our destination, I briefly sketched the figures we had been talking about on a sheet of paper, to make sure we understood each other clearly. I started with numbers and worked down to dates, insurance and schedule. When I asked her if all was clear and understood, she hesitated, then she pointed down at the page. I had made two errors. One error was in her favor: Instead of 250 CZK per 45 minutes, it was 250 CZK per 60 minutes. One error was in my favor: instead of 1600 CZK per day of intensive, it was 1700 per day of intensive teaching. She pointed both out to me.
When I was alone, I thought about her honesty, her hesitation and our relationship. I had just decided to stay with her school, after 3 teachers, including my partner, had left due to poor wages and broken promises. The school is desperate for teachers. I am asking for more money, but I don't have my figures straight. She knows that I feel as if I have been deceived with false promises about pay and wages. Did she think that I was intentionally testing her? Did she point out the errors only because one was in her favor and one in mine? Is there really mutual respect and honesty between us?
If it's true 'What you give is what you get', perhaps I can hope for more. I can no longer expect that because I naively trust strangers, they won't take advantage of me. Maybe I can expect that if I am loyal to the school, they will reward me. Maybe I should listen to my colleague, 'Trust is good, but Distrust is better' and count my losses and go packing. But in my opinion, the show isn't over. There is still a chapter to be written and I'm curious to see what happens if I stay past this point. Perhaps I can make a friend with someone from the generation that saw the transition from communism. We'll see what happens. I hope I am not wasting my time.
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